Year built: 2000s
Plan: My Design
The deck on Arbor creek was made of treated wood, boards were just laid in parallel, the railing was just simple 2x2s and the access to the back yard was only from the ends. So, I decided to take on another deck project.
I decided to use cedar for the wood. I designed it to add on a lower deck and have a broad opening in the middle to step down onto the lower deck and then onto the patio and the rest of the yard. Additionally, I wanted the boards to run at 45deg angles on both levels of the deck and have a perimeter board outlining each deck. I also changed the railing design to a rather complex one I found in a magazine.
First step: tear out the old deck boards and railing. Filled a huge dumbster with the wood (even without the lower section, it is a big deck).
I decided to hire the next few steps out.
Next step: Adding a couple of additional footings to the upper deck where they were needed and the footings for the lower deck.
Next step: Framing the lower deck
Next step: adding additional joists to the upper deck to allow for the perimeter deck board to be fastened.
Now onto the stuff I did.
Next step: Adding all the decking. Made things a little more challenging, with all the boards on angles and a perimeter board outling both the upper and lower deck but, mostly just lots of boards to measure, cut and screw down. Decided to use screws to easily replace boards or get under the deck as needed, and for strenght...lots and lots of wood and screws.
Next step: Addiing the steps on the South and North ends of the upper deck and two long steps from the upper to lower deck and another two long steps from the lower deck to the patio. Steps are always a challenge for me so this took some time but, turned out fine.
Next step: Back to the hired help. I brought him back to do the railing as I was busy at work and was wanting to get done with the project. I wish I remembered his name because, he did a great job on the railing. I don't seem to have his card.
Final step: After letting the wood weather for a month I finished it. Chose to do a solid water based stain. On the Gramsie deck I used a clear oil based stain and it never lasted very long and did not seem to protect the wood very well. Over the years, I like the look of the solid stain, but, I don't like how it wears. I seems to me just like a water based paint and instead of slowly wearing away it peels in various spots (especially when I power wash the deck). Thus, when you go to put on the next coat every couple of years, your fighting an uneven surface where the stain was still nice an thick and where the stain peeled all the way back to the raw wood.
We have enjoyed this deck tremendously over the years. Additionally, as you can see from the pictures, we added a hot tub embedded in the deck which required cutting and adding additional joists, and (the hardest part) building a platform under the deck for the hot tub to sit on.
A couple things you notice in the pictures. A couple of weeks ago (05/2020) I repaired a section of wood that had rotted. This was tougher than it looks as the boards extended under the steps so, I had to remove the steps all the way down to the stringers, and the railing as well. What I realized is that designing the deck with the perimeter board and the end grain of the slanted deck boards butting up too that on the internal joist it creates and place where moisture and dirt accumulate and it does not dry out. Thus, leading to areas that can rot. Lesson learned. I replaced the cedar boards with treated as they will hold up better in moisture and since I am using a solid stain, it should not matter once I re-stain the deck. Additionally, I replaced the two long steps leading to the patio as those boards had their edges broken off. You can also see how the water base stain fails. It chips off like paint not like an oil stain that just fades away. Not a big fan of this although, the water based stain is less toxic. I am waiting a couple more weeks before I re-stain so the new boards have a chance to acclimate.